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Reflective Taping an HGU-84/P Flight Helmet
Taping the HGU-84/P helmet can be very easy. Plan your pattern out ahead of beginning- this will save a lot of trouble. All you need to tape a helmet is some reflective tape and a new razor blade. I use my fingernails a lot to create creases in the tape too.

Remove all hardware from the helmet- in this case I left the NVG/Sight bracket on the front (as the Navy does) and I also left the integrated chin/nape assembly on.

This is how I typically begin a flight helmet tape job. A nice long single strip from the very front forehead area to the back nape area- dead center in the shell. If you read the article on taping the 68/P, you will understand that this creates "mirror images" on each side. This is very important. Make sure this first strip is perfectly vertical. Note the overlap needing to be cut at the nape edgeroll.
The center was easy to find at the forehead area because of the NVG mount. Prior to taping a helmet, run your fingers over it feeling for any rough or raised area- if anything is noticed- remove with fine grit sandpaper. The length of each strip is figured by first placing it on the helmet with the backing on. I ALWAYS add some length for error from the MINIMUM amount needed (perhaps 1 finger width each side).
Copying what I have seen on HGU-84/Ps that I have gotten from pilots- I make a "V" pattern around the NVG mount at the front of the shell. In this photo, I have trimmed the error length at the edgeroll and have creased the overlap meeting the main strip, yet to be trimmed. 
The mirror leg of the "V" has been applied at this point. Both pieces are trimmed at the edgeroll and the desired overlap has been trimmed as well. Typically I use an overlap of 1/16th to 1/8th inch. It is very difficult to do a "flush" finish where the tape is butted and trimmed to fit without overlap- this typically will result in gaps between the tape and will not look as nice.  
There were several options at this point- I could have continued doing the "V" legs with them meeting the main strip down the center or add strips to each side of the main strip. I chose to add to each side of the main strip. I recommend doing at least 3 vertical strips down the back, this will lessen the curvature affect on the horizontal side strips. Do not do more than 5 vertical strips because the overlap due to curvature will become almost 1" at the ends of the piece. This wastes tape and does not look that great. Note: I have cut out the 2 holes for the leather visor pad that goes on the top.
Like I said before, adding the hardware is my favorite part- it is usually best to wait until the tape job is completed but I got anxious and put on the leather visor pad. I have also added the first horizontal strips on each side of the helmet.
Here you can see the mirror images created. Using the "half principal," I began the horizontal strip at the center point of the main vertical strip and ended it at the integrated chin/nape strap slot which is the approximate center of the front part of the shell (see photo below). This will basically cut the shell into 4 sections or quarters.
This is the next section to tackle. I decided to half this section again as seen below.
Eyeing the center of this quarter of the shell, I run a strip from where the horizontal strip meets the vertical strip and end it at where the edgeroll makes the corner in the nape area. 

MIRROR IMAGES.

Starting at the center strip in the left rear quarter, I begin working back towards the main vertical strips. Every strip will get creased with the thumbnail prior to trimming carefully with the razor blade.
Look closely at the overlapping and creases. Also not how each strip is butted up against the previous one at its center point- it is then worked from the center to each end. At this point I have cut out the holes for the microphone communications cord & amplifier. I prefer to do the "X" pattern cut as seen in the large hole.
At this point I have finished the rear section of the helmet. If you look closely, you can see that both side look almost identical. 
Here I am working forward on the right rear quarter. As I noted in the HGU-68/P taping article- be sure to be careful with the razor blade around the leather edgeroll and do not press the tape on to the leather edgeroll either- it might damage the leather when removed. 
Here is a good photo of how the main strip down the sides cuts the helmet into quarters- here are the front and back quarters of the right side of the helmet.
Looking here from the right rear of the helmet, I have completed the taping of the right rear quarter and already added the hardware consisting of the visor snap & chin/nape securing screw.
At this point, the back half of the helmet is completed and I begin work on the front. I start by adding a strip next to each leg of the "V" around the NVG mount. This piece is pressed, creased and ready to be trimmed for overlap. 
Here I have completed each side of the "V" legs around the NVG mount. This brings the legs to where the edgeroll makes a downward turn. 
I add 2 strips to each side of the original "V" legs around the NVG mount- this brings me to the approximate end of the edgeroll where it makes a 90 degree turn down. I stop here so I can use 1 long strip that butts up against the edgeroll up and down. Working from the side strip (under the boom mike round mount shown)- I add a strip forward. I trim it around the integrated chin/nape assembly slot. 
This is the right side of the helmet as I do the above steps. Adding the 2 "V" legs up to the edge of the downward turning edgeroll. 
Looking from the top, you can see how we are working our way forward. 
The left side of the helmet is completed. Just a few more pieces on the other side and we are totally done.
Now the right side is completed. All of the holes for the hardware are located by feeling through the tape- once found, use the razor blade to make a small hole (make sure the hole is not larger than the head of the screw so it will be hidden).
Upon completion- run your thumb over each piece to make sure it is firmly stuck. Used your fingernail to go over every crease and overlap. 
Visors are now attached- the helmet is ready to go. The Navy/Marine Corps require white reflective tape to cover at least 90% of the helmet shell- the remaining 10% can be used for squadron markings, also made from reflective tape. The requirement is to aid in rescue of a crewmember from the sea. 
Taping this medium HGU-84/P took me around 2 hours. Do not rush your tape job, and do not force the tape to go in any direction. Forcing the tape will cause bubbles to form at the edges. It is bet to let the tape go in a natural straight direction, following the curvature of the shell. 

For this medium HGU-84/P, 7.2 yards (or 21.6 feet / or 259.2 inches) of 1 inch reflective tape was used- this includes "error" length allowed at the end of each piece. 

3M Reflective tape can be purchased here.


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